How to Fail and Start AgainNovember 4th, 2008 View Comments |
Any company that adopts the phrase “Unf*** the world” as an organizing principle isn’t scared of trying new things.
Nau wasn’t scared. Nau started with grand goals to change the retail apparel industry model while creating a grand environmental sustainability and social responsibility movement. Earlier this year they failed: not because of the ideals, but because of the more mundane reasons: poor execution and not enough money.
But they’re back.
The innovative clothing company Nau was supposed to transform the apparel industry. Instead, it tanked. So what went wrong, and what happens next?
Nau would soon go from sake-soaked dream to bona fide startup with more than 60 employees, $24 million in capital, and outsized buzz for its business practices. … It boasted an expert staff and stylish products. More important, its ideals differentiated the brand dramatically.
Barely a year after Nau’s clothing landed on store shelves in March, 2007, the company went belly-up, done in by overreaching ambition and a slumping economy.
Failure happens.
But it doesn’t always end that way. Business history is littered with examples: a company blazes in with a great idea, idea isn’t a winner in the marketplace, but instead of going under the company finds a way to channel the idea into another direction and finds success.
In June, [Gordon Seabury, the CEO of Horny Toad Activewear] bought what was left of the company for an undisclosed sum. This October, Nau will relaunch using the same farms and mills, with Verité continuing to monitor labor conditions. Already, the factories are cutting and sewing again. In its new life, Nau no longer has to worry about raising capital to birth a fully formed brand. Under Horny Toad, the company will grow organically, perhaps the way it should have from the start.
What changed? Thankfully, not the ideals or the commitment to sustainability, environmentally-friendly materials and social responsibility. But Nau has tightened up the execution model:
- The old stores are gone, as is the “webfront” retail model, replaced by a more traditional reseller model.
- The website (thankfully) is much faster and easier to use. The old website was a travesty for a company that based its business model on a transactional website.
- The plan to donate 5% of revenues to causes has been reduced to 2%, with fewer choices of nonprofits for customers.
- The growth plans have been scaled back and the company will focus on growing organically, relaunching with 100 less styles, less marketing and lower growth expectations.
Making everybody change they way they do things is hard. There’s a lot of value in it, but it rarely comes the way you originally plan. Be careful of the big bet; you can’t win if you aren’t in the game.
“If we have to leave some growth on the table in return for being a bit more cautious and successful in the long run, that’s okay,” Seabury says. “It’s all about lifetime impact, and you can’t have a lifetime impact unless you’re sustainable on the business side.”
We learn a lot more about ourselves through failure than success. Let’s hope you don’t have to learn as much as I have.






November 4th, 2008 at 15:22
Good observations, Taylor. As you know, I'm a fan of Nau, and bought quite a lot of clothes last year through their retail stories in chicago and L.A. They have the best style of any sustainable clothing I know.
Their narrative is a good lesson in now a brand's ideals have to be coupled with business fundamentals. When these get uncoupled, you can find yourself in the ditch and needing a tow. Luckily they got one from Horny Toad. Ian Yolles, Nau's head of Marketing, and the brand's designers are still on board. Here's hoping tthat their initial failures have resulted in lots of learning get their system right this time. It's too good a brand to go away….
November 4th, 2008 at 22:00
My thought is that they underestimated how difficult it is to change the way people buy.
People loved the brand and the products: the awards, reviews and media gush about Nau and the brand was proof. But the retail strategy was poorly conceived and executed, requiring too much change and too much cash. Unable to change, they were forced to go under to wipe out the capital structure and start again. The relaunch under Horny Toad will be the test of the brand and products in a more traditional reseller model.
I think we're all looking forward…
January 14th, 2009 at 22:41
The post really nice , i like it ,thanks for sharing,thanks for your post, i will keep read your blog everyday
wholesale clothing
wholesale clothing distributors
wholesale Korean fashion